Get out and ride - Apline Andorra

Last month we took a ride into Andorra, this time we finish off the journey and look at some of the facts and figures involved in getting there. Words Pics Judy Armstrong.

Marti told us about the dirt road into Spain, at Port de Cabus, on the edge of the Pal area. “It was used by tobacco smugglers, but,” and he looked doubtfully at the big Trophy, “I think it might not be so good on your bike.” After sharing lunch with him, we rode the sweeping bends around the sides of large mountains, to the border. Duncan stopped on the edge of the Tarmac and peered down the dirt trail. “Marti’s right,” he said. “It’d be OK solo on a trailie, but two-up on the Trophy? Not today.”

We cruised back down the mountain, dodging a long string of manhole covers set into the road near the Coll de la Botella. The route took us past tiny stone villages to Ordino, where we headed north to Arcalis and a taste of Andorran switchbacks. The ride was a delight, past waterfalls and snow patches, small stone buildings and crashing rivers. When the Tarmac ended we rode as far as we dared on the dirt track, wishing for a bike built for this kind of terrain.

Back to Ordino, then, and on to the glorious, empty road over the Coll d’Ordino. We stopped on the pass to take in the view. In every direction, mountains filled the frame, some scarred with construction but others pristine and primal. In winter these monsters are snow-shrouded but in summer the rock formations, wandering livestock and wildflowers give them shape and character.

Twisting down sharp, steep bends to the town of Canillo, we joined the main road and were caught up in chaos. After a day in the mountains, the volume of traffic was a shocker, made worse when we missed the bypass for la Vella and rode down the main street among the shoppers. I have to say, people with a retail habit are a nightmare.
We opted to leave early next morning – it was the right call; the ride up to Pas de la Casa was a treat. Gliding through sleeping towns, past the huge alcohol emporiums, we paused at the Romanesque church of Sant Joan de Caselles.
The final leg, past the imposing glacial cirques of Grand Valira, was pure pleasure. Spurning the smelly tunnel for the wickedly eroded Tarmac road over the pass, we paused before descending to the border. The main valley was hidden now, and a meadow stuffed with yellow flowers filled the view. The mountains rolled away into the distance, hindered only briefly by the eyesore of Pas de la Casa. The border police waved us through – they knew as well as we did that contraband was never going to fit in our panniers.
We left Andorra with mixed emotions; it had shown us the best, and the worst, of its faces. As an alpine nation that has apparently succumbed to commercialism, it’s a tragedy. But, beyond the main valley, Andorra offers serene mountains, friendly people, great weather and a fat helping of history. For motorcycle tourers who make the effort to escape the mainstream, it’s a hidden gem.

PRICE CHECK

Petrol is cheaper than in neighbouring France or Spain. In June 2006, we paid ¤1.051/litre, compared with ¤1.45/litre over the border.
n Helmets: Shoei XR-1000 ¤250, Arai RX7CO Pedrosa replica ¤590.
n Dainese clothing: Goretex Jacket ¤300. Vulcan leather jacket ¤300. Fire leather trousers ¤260, Delta (with knee sliders) ¤230.
n Touring boots: Alpinestars Jet Goretex ¤167, Dainese Axial ¤150.
n Luggage: Richa waterproof tank bag ¤80, Givi Voyager ¤67.
n Hard luggage: Givikeyless (41 litres) ¤120, 46-litre top box with brake lights ¤140.
n Tyres (every make imaginable): Bridgestone BT-020 front ¤104 to ¤129, rear ¤141 to ¤213 plus ¤10 fitting/balancing per tyre.
n All prices (which I have rounded up) are from Motocard, www.motocard.com tel 00376 722617 (English spoken)

FACTFILE

Andorra is 468 square kilometres of land between France and Spain and has been independent since 1278. In 1993, after 700 years of feudalism, a democratic constitution was voted in. Its history is complicated, but it has remained independent through having the foresight to make the French president and a Spanish bishop heads of state. They are figureheads, with the Andorran government made up of representatives from its seven parishes.
Current population is around 80,000, with around 12-million visitors a year. It is the only country in the world with Catalan as the official language although Spanish, French and English are widely understood. Currency is the euro, although Andorra isn’t in the EU. Goods to a value of ¤1000 are tax-free, although some services are now taxed.
n Information: www.skiandorra.ad www.andorra.ad sindicatiniciativa@andorra.ad tel 00376 820214
n Accommodation: Andorra has around 250 hotels, plus a handful of campsites, which are mostly open mid-June to September. For more information and listings, visit www.andorra.ad or recommendations in the Rough Guide. We stayed in the Art Hotel (www.arthotel.ad) in central Andorra la Vella, which has a secure garage (we thought it was included in the room rate but discovered, on being chased into the street, that it is payable separately!)
Read more: The Rough Guide to the Pyrenees (www.roughguides.com) has a comprehensive section on Andorra and has a useful rip-proof waterproof map. Michelin maps are also recommended.
Getting there: The best route from England is to take the P&O ferry from Portsmouth to Bilbao (www.poferries.com tel 08705 202020) and head east through the Pyrenees. On main roads, allow two days from Bilbao. On minor and mountain roads, allow four easy days’ cruising. Prime riding roads for reaching Andorra from the west are the N260 from Sort to La Seu d’Urgell, then the N1 to La Farga de Moles. From the east, ride the N116 to Bourg Madame, the N20 to Col de Puymorens and the N22 to Pas de la Casa.
Trail riding: Off-roading is not permitted in Andorra, but Brit-run Moto Aventures are based in the principality, and ride rough just across the borders. Contact Su on 00376 738110, www.motoaventures.com
Off the bike: Hike, ski, rock climb, via ferrata, mountain bike, bungee-jump, go-kart, raft, 4x4, ride a horse or a quad, fish for frogs… The main centre is Pal ski resort, www.vallnord.com (00376 835123).

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