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Tech Talk : ANSWERS

Welcome to Tech Talk - UBG's Agony Uncle

It’s that time of year folks, yep it’s time to wash away the winter grime, service your bikes and get them in tip top condition for the spring. To guide you along the way we’ve selected a few products that may help you in the garage.Don’t worry, we’ll be answering your technical queries in Tech Talk in the next issue, providing you let us know about them! If you’ve got any problems or technical questions you’d like answering, write to us at the usual address or email us at editor@usedbikeguide.com and we’ll email you back with the answer as soon as we can. Letters will be published in the next issue and you may be in with a chance to win a tasty prize…

Overcoat

I’ve recently purchased a 1985 Yamaha V-Max that had been stood in a barn for 20 years. It’s in very good condition overall but has a couple of cosmetic issues that I’d like to sort out. For starters I’d like to refinish the frame because it’s showing a few spots of rust around the welds. I’ve considered powder coating the frame but I’m concerned about the coating obscuring the serial numbers and also the vinyl serial number sticker on the steering head.
The second issue is the flaking paint finish on the engine. How could I sort that out without taking the engine to bits? Could powder coating be utilised here as well, or would paint be a better option? What would be the best method to clean off the old paint before refinishing it? Also do you have any suggestions on paint brands for a long lasting finish? Sorry for all the questions!
Arvo Rannala
Ontario
Canada

Don’t apologise Arvo, that’s what we’re here for! In my experience serial numbers on bike frames are usually easily legible even after powder coating. It depends on the technique/experience of the powder coater you use. It’s best to try and stick to a bike specialist as opposed to an industrial powder coater; they’re more sympathetic to what’s needed. If after coating the number is hard to read it is possible to carefully remove the excess coating with a fine file and then paint over it with gloss of a similar colour to the frame to prevent it from rusting. The sticker will have to go though I’m afraid but a vinyl sticker company will be able to make you a replacement if you take a decent quality digital image of it before it gets stripped. Try www.reproductiondecals.com

The engine can be treated with paint stripper then scrubbed up, degreased and sprayed with an engine enamel. Take lots of time over preparation and make sure you mask off all the ports, oilways and parts you don’t want to be sprayed or it’ll look worse than before! A skilled company can shotblast your engine without dismantling it, but be sure you use a reputable company that deals with bikes, any shot inside your engine isn’t likely to do your V-Max any good. As for paint brands I use PJ1 but I’m not sure if it’s available in Canada, good luck.
IG

What tolerance?

I’ve got an old GS550 Suzuki; can you tell me how to check and what the wear tolerances are for the cam chain please?
Dave Westwood
email

We’ve had to ask our colleagues on Motorcycle Mechanics to answer this one Dave. On the Suzuki GS engines, the cam chain tensioner is a large, sturdy unit comprising two spring-loaded plungers operating at right angles. A small pinch bolt on the side of the tensioner body allows you to lock the plungers in position when you remove the tensioner. Set your engine to 1 & 4 TDC, then slacken off the locknut and nip up the pinch bolt. Now remove the whole tensioner assembly from the back of the cylinder barrel. Without disturbing the pinch bolt, carefully measure how far the main plunger is extended from the tensioner body – ie how far it is protruding into the cylinder block. Now slacken the pinch bolt, allowing the plunger to extend fully under spring pressure. Again, measure how far it now protrudes. Finally, wind off the finger wheel on the tensioner and push the plunger all the way in, locking it in the retracted position with the pinch bolt.

You now have three measurements. The two extremes tell you how much adjustment range is possible, the first measurement you took tells you whereabouts your cam chain is between the two extremes. You now know whether it’s quarter worn, half or getting close to the limit. Finally, with the plungers still locked in the retracted position, replace the tensioner with a new gasket and reset the tension. As easy as that!

Gearshift worry

After recently passing my bike test I decided on a CBR600F. As the bike had only done 20,000 miles I thought she must have plenty of life left in her, however I seem to have a clutch problem.

I can put the bike in gear and pull away normally at slow speeds, but if I want to give it some welly it will still go into gear normally, up until I reach fourth, then I find it either won't go into gear or I have to almost kick it into gear. It can be rather embarrassing if it doesn’t go into gear, as I’m left with a screaming engine.

My local garage tried it and adjusted the clutch cable and chain, this did ease the problem but the problem does still remain. I have been told to try an expensive oil to remedy the problem do you think this will help, or have you any other ideas?

Darryl Sharp
via email

The gears should change perfectly well without the clutch, if you get the timing right, so try it without to see what happens. If the problem is still there then there may be something amiss with the gearshift mechanism within the gearbox.

In answer to your question you should be running the best oil you can get for this engine as this will help make everything move slickly, but with a mere 20,000 on the clock there shouldn’t be anything else amiss. CP

Honda downpipe battering

My Honda CBR600 has a Motad system fitted to it and the previous owner must have regularly negotiated a large kerb as the front curve is battered almost flat. I have been quoted several hundred quid for a new system but the rest of the pipework, silencer etc are in good shape. Is there anyone who can take the dents out or am I stuck with a big bill?

Jerry Hill
Tamworth

It may be possible to remove the dents but this will mean cutting and welding, which can end up looking messy – so not really an option. Motad (www.motad.co.uk) do sell the individual components for their systems so have you tried contacting them or getting your dealer to do so? They are friendly folk so this avenue could well prove a worthwhile, and cost effective remedy for your problem. CP

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